The local ferry from Fengiie takes about 20 minutes to reach White
Emperor City(Baidi Cheng) on the north bank of the Yangtze River,
passing several pagodas on the surrounding peaks the return trip takes
an hour). Sadly the approach to this historic site is quite spoilt by a
factory and workers' housing built in the 1970s.
Because of its strategic position the town was chosen in the first
century AD by Gong Sunshu, an official turned soldier, as the site of
his headquarters. The legend goes that in AD 25 white vapour in the
shape of a dragon was seen rising from a nearby well. Taking this as an
auspicious omen, Gong declared himself the "White Emperor" and the town
"White Emperor City". Remains of the city wall can still be seen on the
hill behind Baidi Mountain. The 12-year reign of the White Emperor was
regarded as a time of peace and harmony, so after his death a temple was
built to commemorate his reign. This temple dates back over 1,950
years.
A red wall with an imposing yellow dragon-head gateway surrounds the
temple complex. Though the temple was originally dedicated to Gong
Sunshu, the White Emperor, his statue was removed in the Ming dynasty
(l368--l644) and replaced with images of Liu Bei, Zhuge Liang, Guan Yu
and Zhang Fei, heroes of the Shu Kingdom during the Three Kingdoms
period. The present halls date from the Ming dynasty.
The front hall contains large modern statues which depict Liu Bei on
his deathbed entrusting his Sons to the care of Zhuge Liang. To the
left is the handsome, winged Observing the Stars Pavilion (Guanxing
Ting), Where a large bronze bell can be seen hanging in the upper
storey. From this pavilion Zhuge Liang observed the stars and made
accurate weather forecasts Which helped him plan his victorious battles.
The two Forest of Tablets halls contain several rare engraved stelae,
some of which are over 1,300 years old. The Phoenix Tablet is
particularly finely engraved. The Bamboo Leaf Poem Tablet is one of only
three in China. It is considered a fine work of art, combining as it
does poetry and calligraphy, for the tablet is engraved with three
branches of bamboo,each leaf forming the Chinese characters of a poem.
The Wuhou Hall is dedicated to Zhuge Liang, his son and grandson.
The bodies of the statues are of the Ming dynasty (1368--1644), but the
heads, smashed in the Cultural Revolution (l966--76), are new. Mingliang
Hall is dedicated to Liu Bei, Who is shown surrounded by four
attendants, as well as the black-faced Zhang Fei and the red faced Guan
Yu on one side, and Zhuge Liang on the other. Adjoining rooms display
furniture, scrolls, porcelain and other cultural relics.